I almost posted this as a comment over on Doe-C-Doe's (based on her comment about how copyright had helped her but she was still concerned about the Vogart issue) but I decided that perhaps she had moved past this, and it might be seen as churlish to post it there, in her comments, but:
I wonder what the original designers for Vogart got paid? I'd bet it wasn't much. I bet it was a lot less than some of the "small businesswomen" selling their own designs on Etsy make - because those folks make money off of every pattern they sell. I bet Vogart didn't do royalties.
And Vogart enforcing copyright on OOP patterns most likely won't get the original designers (or more likely, their heirs) any more money now.
Perhaps I take a jaundiced view of this because of My Experience In Writing Journal Articles. I know I've harped on this before but it is a sore point: you spend maybe six months to a year writing a research article (sometimes more). You send it off to a journal. IF it is accepted (usually requiring revisions, maybe a few more weeks' worth of time), there's a little form you sign.
Which assigns your copyright to the journal. You give up any ownership of the paper.
To the point of which, if you want to make a coursepack with a paper YOU wrote in it, you have to pay copyright fees to the journal.
And if you wish to subscribe to the journal? $100+ dollars a year (and it can be three times that for an academic library to subscribe). (And in some cases in order to publish you have to BELONG to the society publishing the journal, perhaps another $50 annually.)
And some journals have page charges where you (or, more likely, your institution) pays $50 (that's what it was last time I had something in a journal with page charges) a page for the privilege of you assigning your copyright to them.
Oh - and also, if you want to read an article in a journal your library does not get, or does not have an electronic subscription to? In some cases, you need to be prepared to shell out $30 or so.
So the advantage is very much with the journals. I know it's expensive to do those small print runs of things, but it irks me because production of journal articles is something you MUST do (at least in the sciences) if you want tenure and promotion. And it feels to me kind of like a big racket where the people actually generating the knowledge - the researchers - are treated like the servants of the journal.
I think in some branches of the "craft" industry it's kind of similar - you get paid a flat fee (often not much) and then the magazine or publisher or whomever owns your design forever and can reprint it at will. And you can't even teach a class using your own previously-published design unless you pay a fee to the company.
True, "big name" designers like Mary Engelbreit probably can negotiate better packages, but I suspect the majority of people writing greeting cards or doing the drawings that go on stickers or writing patterns for those little Coats and Clark's booklets get a small check and a letter of thanks and that's it.
I think I would be more vigorous in my defense of the company-that-owns-Vogart's copyright enforcement if I felt that it was truly a move to help designers - either those who originally designed the patterns (or, as I said, their heirs...some of these patterns were first published in the 40s) or the ones designing now. But I kind of think that's not it.
And if the ladies who posted patterns online were SELLING them, that would be a very different matter. But no one was actually making money off of the exchange of designs. In a way, I suppose, it could be viewed as a situation similar to that of a neighbor loaning you a book she had finished reading so you could read it...
If money had actually been changing hands that would have been different.
I mean - there are lots of folks on Etsy who design, who sell their designs in a small way through that website. They deserve protection from people who take their designs and sell pirated copies. But there's a difference between a pattern currently in print and available, and one that was last widely available 60 years ago.
If the company that owns Vogart wanted to do the right thing? They could make their catalog of patterns for sale as a print-on-demand sort of thing, like .pdf files. You pay your $3 or whatever through PayPal, and they send you a .pdf copy of the design you want. (Or maybe make a "subscription" to the whole catalog available, which would be fantastic - you could pay an annual fee and then be allowed to print whichever designs you want). And use the proceeds to either help the families of the original designers, or to help sponsor new designers.
I don't know. I'm really NOT one of those "information wants to be free" types. But I also feel sometimes that the way some of the big publishers handle information is a bit greedy.
Showing posts with label free patterns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label free patterns. Show all posts
Wednesday, September 03, 2008
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Free Pattern: Alien-Bug-Critter from TI-99's "The Attack"
Here is a silly little Christmas present of sorts from me to you - a pattern I was talking about working up the other day. I realize that you might have to have been a kid of the early 80s - and even moreso, a kid of the early 80s whose family had a TI 99/4A computer system - to understand this and "get" it, but I figure there must be some other folks out here who remember this thing.
I was talking about a project that “made me laugh” yesterday. I was inspired – both by the Space Invaders knit toy pattern I linked to the other day and Jess Hutchinson’s Robot pattern – to make one of the alien-critter-bug things from the old TI 99 game called “The Attack” (some information and screenshots here)
I used a very similar technique to Ms. Hutchinson’s robots, so I e-mailed her to get permission to use a modification of that in this. She was very gracious and encouraging and I thank her.
If you want to make one of these, please do so. If you want to make them as gifts, great. If you want to make them to sell for charity (though they don't seem to me to be stereotypical church-basement crafts sale fare), go ahead. Just - please don't sell them for profit, and please don't take the pattern and claim you did it, or sell the pattern. Thanks. (If you want more info, please e-mail me.)
Here are some general, “pithy” instructions on how to do it. I will have charts at the end of the pattern, as well as pictures of the finished critter. It knits up quite fast - you could probably do it in less than a day if that was the only thing you were working on. A good last-minute gift if you have any old-skool computer gamers.
I used Paton’s Classic Wool in Pumpkin and Winter White. It takes about half a skein of the Pumpkin and just small amounts of the white. You can use any smooth worsted-weight yarn in the right colors. These alien-critter-bug things were kind of a burnt orange color (at least on the tv that we used as a monitor for the computer) and the Pumpkin is just about the right color.
I used size 6 (4 mm) straight needles for the bodies, and two size 8 (5.5 mm) dpns for the I-cord for the antennae and legs. I started at the head and worked down, and added in an intarsia panel for the “eyespot” these things had. I put the “eyespot” in the up orientation for the front, and then, when I started the back, I realized that I could make the back with the eyespot in the other, “down” orientation (in the game, the alien-critter-bugs had an eyespot that bounced up and down on its body from the belly to the head).
I’m not totally satisfied where the eyespot worked up on my prototype so I changed the back pattern and chart to post here so the “belly” eyespot will not be down so low.
Of course, you can make the front just with the eyespot in the position you prefer and make the back all plain.
Gauge is not crucial; you just want it not to be so loose the stuffing shows through. I got about 16 sts to 4" and 20 rows to 4", if you want a ballpark figure.
Directions:
Front, with eyespot in “up” position.
Head
Cast on 28 stitches.
Starting with a knit row, knit in stockinette for 6 rows.
Row 7: knit 7, change to white, knit 14, change back to pumpkin. You will be knitting this as intarsia so don’t forget to twist the yarns when you change color, so you will not have a hole.
Rows 8 through 13: Continuing in stockinette, work 7 sts pumpkin, 14 sts white, and 7 sts pumpkin. Don’t forget to twist the yarns at every color change.
Break off white after row 13 and continue in pumpkin. Do 5 more stockinette rows; you will be ending with a WS row (row 18).
Body: After knitting those 18 head rows, cast on 11 stitches at the beginning of each of the next 2 rows. Use the “e-wrap” cast on. This will form the “shoulders” of the toy
You will have 50 stitches once you have cast on all the stitches.
Once all the stitches have been cast on, knit in stockinette for 34 rows and bind off.
Back, with eyespot in “down” position:
Head:
Cast on 28 sts and, starting with a knit row, knit in stockinette for 18 rows
Body:
At the beginning of the next two rows, cast on 11 sts for each “shoulder”
You will have 50 sts total.
Starting with the first row after all the sts have been cast on (which should be a p row), knit in stockinette for 13 rows. Then, on the next row, knit 18 pumpkin, knit 14 white (don’t forget to twist the yarns to avoid holes), and knit 18 pumpkin.
Knit the next 6 rows following this pattern to make the eyespot. You will end after row 20.
Break off the white yarn and work stockinette stitch in pumpkin for 14 more rows (a total of 34 rows). Bind off.
Antennae: make two
Using size 8 dpns, work 4 ½ inches of 5 stitch I-cord. At the end of the I-cord, finish off the last row by k 2 tog, k1 k 2 tog and then in the next row bind off the three remaining stitches.
Legs: make two
Again using size 8 dpns, work 5 ½ inches of 6 stitch I-cord. At the end of the I-cord, finish off by k 2 tog 3 times and bind off the 3 sts remaining.
Working up the alien. (There is a lot of sewing here).
Start by tying off or weaving in the ends of the intarsia bits (as this will be on the inside of the toy it doesn’t have to be perfectly neat but it should be secure). Next, put the two body sides together, WS facing, and seam (as you would seam a sweater) all around the body except for the bottom. (use the pumpkin colored yarn for this).
Leave part or all of the bottom open for stuffing.
Stuff the alien-critter-bug thing with fiberfill (or wool stuffing, if you can get it). Don’t use small “wads” of stuffing; I pulled my fiberfill off into big sheets and inserted it carefully so it stayed smooth. You want the toy to be full enough but also fairly flat.
When it is sufficiently stuffed, seam up the opening. Attach the I-cord antennae to the corners of the head, and the I-cord legs to the bottom corner of the body.
The I-cord will be kind of floppy and you can move it back and forth. In the game the alien-critter-bug things’ antennae tips moved in and out, as did the bottoms of their legs. (If you have played the game you will get what I mean.)
If you wanted to, you could probably use wire or chenille stems in the antennae and legs to give them more stiffness and poseability – but I’d not use that if I were giving the toy to a young child or if I intended to use it as a pillow.
The funny thing about knitted toys – something that I remember as having been a rather ominous (perhaps even slightly frightening) video game character (from when I was a child) becomes a little bit goofy and even kind of endearing when knit into a toy.
The alien-critter-bug relaxes in one of my armchairs.
And here it is showing you its backside. Cheeky bug.
(As I said - I wasn't satisfied with the position of this "eyespot" on this, my prototype, so I moved it up a few rows in the instructions and charts I'm giving).
If you wanted to go even further to make this into a gift for someone who remembered the game, you could look at the online “screenshots” and use them as a guide to make up a little square gift bag to put the alien-critter-bug in: you could appliqué or embroider a “1” on it (the alien-critter-bug things emerged from numbered boxes that counted down – 1 was, of course, the last number before the alien-critter-bug thing hatched.)
So, here are the charts, for those who prefer a chart:
Front:
and Back:
Here is a silly little Christmas present of sorts from me to you - a pattern I was talking about working up the other day. I realize that you might have to have been a kid of the early 80s - and even moreso, a kid of the early 80s whose family had a TI 99/4A computer system - to understand this and "get" it, but I figure there must be some other folks out here who remember this thing.
I was talking about a project that “made me laugh” yesterday. I was inspired – both by the Space Invaders knit toy pattern I linked to the other day and Jess Hutchinson’s Robot pattern – to make one of the alien-critter-bug things from the old TI 99 game called “The Attack” (some information and screenshots here)
I used a very similar technique to Ms. Hutchinson’s robots, so I e-mailed her to get permission to use a modification of that in this. She was very gracious and encouraging and I thank her.
If you want to make one of these, please do so. If you want to make them as gifts, great. If you want to make them to sell for charity (though they don't seem to me to be stereotypical church-basement crafts sale fare), go ahead. Just - please don't sell them for profit, and please don't take the pattern and claim you did it, or sell the pattern. Thanks. (If you want more info, please e-mail me.)
Here are some general, “pithy” instructions on how to do it. I will have charts at the end of the pattern, as well as pictures of the finished critter. It knits up quite fast - you could probably do it in less than a day if that was the only thing you were working on. A good last-minute gift if you have any old-skool computer gamers.
I used Paton’s Classic Wool in Pumpkin and Winter White. It takes about half a skein of the Pumpkin and just small amounts of the white. You can use any smooth worsted-weight yarn in the right colors. These alien-critter-bug things were kind of a burnt orange color (at least on the tv that we used as a monitor for the computer) and the Pumpkin is just about the right color.
I used size 6 (4 mm) straight needles for the bodies, and two size 8 (5.5 mm) dpns for the I-cord for the antennae and legs. I started at the head and worked down, and added in an intarsia panel for the “eyespot” these things had. I put the “eyespot” in the up orientation for the front, and then, when I started the back, I realized that I could make the back with the eyespot in the other, “down” orientation (in the game, the alien-critter-bugs had an eyespot that bounced up and down on its body from the belly to the head).
I’m not totally satisfied where the eyespot worked up on my prototype so I changed the back pattern and chart to post here so the “belly” eyespot will not be down so low.
Of course, you can make the front just with the eyespot in the position you prefer and make the back all plain.
Gauge is not crucial; you just want it not to be so loose the stuffing shows through. I got about 16 sts to 4" and 20 rows to 4", if you want a ballpark figure.
Directions:
Front, with eyespot in “up” position.
Head
Cast on 28 stitches.
Starting with a knit row, knit in stockinette for 6 rows.
Row 7: knit 7, change to white, knit 14, change back to pumpkin. You will be knitting this as intarsia so don’t forget to twist the yarns when you change color, so you will not have a hole.
Rows 8 through 13: Continuing in stockinette, work 7 sts pumpkin, 14 sts white, and 7 sts pumpkin. Don’t forget to twist the yarns at every color change.
Break off white after row 13 and continue in pumpkin. Do 5 more stockinette rows; you will be ending with a WS row (row 18).
Body: After knitting those 18 head rows, cast on 11 stitches at the beginning of each of the next 2 rows. Use the “e-wrap” cast on. This will form the “shoulders” of the toy
You will have 50 stitches once you have cast on all the stitches.
Once all the stitches have been cast on, knit in stockinette for 34 rows and bind off.
Back, with eyespot in “down” position:
Head:
Cast on 28 sts and, starting with a knit row, knit in stockinette for 18 rows
Body:
At the beginning of the next two rows, cast on 11 sts for each “shoulder”
You will have 50 sts total.
Starting with the first row after all the sts have been cast on (which should be a p row), knit in stockinette for 13 rows. Then, on the next row, knit 18 pumpkin, knit 14 white (don’t forget to twist the yarns to avoid holes), and knit 18 pumpkin.
Knit the next 6 rows following this pattern to make the eyespot. You will end after row 20.
Break off the white yarn and work stockinette stitch in pumpkin for 14 more rows (a total of 34 rows). Bind off.
Antennae: make two
Using size 8 dpns, work 4 ½ inches of 5 stitch I-cord. At the end of the I-cord, finish off the last row by k 2 tog, k1 k 2 tog and then in the next row bind off the three remaining stitches.
Legs: make two
Again using size 8 dpns, work 5 ½ inches of 6 stitch I-cord. At the end of the I-cord, finish off by k 2 tog 3 times and bind off the 3 sts remaining.
Working up the alien. (There is a lot of sewing here).
Start by tying off or weaving in the ends of the intarsia bits (as this will be on the inside of the toy it doesn’t have to be perfectly neat but it should be secure). Next, put the two body sides together, WS facing, and seam (as you would seam a sweater) all around the body except for the bottom. (use the pumpkin colored yarn for this).
Leave part or all of the bottom open for stuffing.
Stuff the alien-critter-bug thing with fiberfill (or wool stuffing, if you can get it). Don’t use small “wads” of stuffing; I pulled my fiberfill off into big sheets and inserted it carefully so it stayed smooth. You want the toy to be full enough but also fairly flat.
When it is sufficiently stuffed, seam up the opening. Attach the I-cord antennae to the corners of the head, and the I-cord legs to the bottom corner of the body.
The I-cord will be kind of floppy and you can move it back and forth. In the game the alien-critter-bug things’ antennae tips moved in and out, as did the bottoms of their legs. (If you have played the game you will get what I mean.)
If you wanted to, you could probably use wire or chenille stems in the antennae and legs to give them more stiffness and poseability – but I’d not use that if I were giving the toy to a young child or if I intended to use it as a pillow.
The funny thing about knitted toys – something that I remember as having been a rather ominous (perhaps even slightly frightening) video game character (from when I was a child) becomes a little bit goofy and even kind of endearing when knit into a toy.
The alien-critter-bug relaxes in one of my armchairs.
And here it is showing you its backside. Cheeky bug.
(As I said - I wasn't satisfied with the position of this "eyespot" on this, my prototype, so I moved it up a few rows in the instructions and charts I'm giving).
If you wanted to go even further to make this into a gift for someone who remembered the game, you could look at the online “screenshots” and use them as a guide to make up a little square gift bag to put the alien-critter-bug in: you could appliqué or embroider a “1” on it (the alien-critter-bug things emerged from numbered boxes that counted down – 1 was, of course, the last number before the alien-critter-bug thing hatched.)
So, here are the charts, for those who prefer a chart:
Front:
and Back:
Tuesday, August 07, 2007
As promised, the Horseshoe Crab Socks pattern!
The main trickiness of this was getting the (rather wide) pattern to work out so it would be symmetrical on the instep, and also, getting the toe to work out evenly.
I have checked this pattern and I'm pretty sure it's correct (the stitch pattern especially - I wanted to be sure I had all the yo's in the right places). If there are any points that need clarification, let me know. (And if you decide to knit these, please let me know...in fact, if you send me a picture of the finished socks, I'll post it).
Horseshoe Crab Socks (using a stitch pattern from the Vogue Stitchionary, Volume 1)
Copyright "fillyjonk"
Requirements: 100 g (about 375-390 yards) fingering-weight sockyarn
Set of five double-pointed needles, size 1 (or size needed to give gauge)
Gauge: 8 sts = 1 inch (over stockinette stitch - it is very hard to count sts in the lace pattern, gauge is about 9 sts per inch in that, but the lace pattern will stretch)
Size: women’s “medium” – 8” (unstretched) leg circumference (it will stretch to 12” or more), 9” (very lightly stretched) foot circumference, 9 ¼” foot length. Can be adjusted for length by knitting more or fewer rows.
Cast on 72 sts over two needles held together. Join in a round, being careful not to twist stitches.
Abbreviations: psso = pass slipped stitch over (over previously knitted-together stitches)
Ssk = Slip, slip, knit decrease – slip two stitches and knit them together.
Directions between asterisks: repeat until end of round or end of instep.
Spread stitches evenly (I used 24-24-24) over three needles and knit in k1, p1 rib for 1 ½ inches.
Leg pattern (repeat of 12 sts). You will be ending rows 1 and 3 with a yarn over; be sure to work at least a few stitches of the next row before setting the work down so you don’t lose the yarnover.
Round 1: *k2, yo, k1, slip 1-k2tog-psso, k1, yo, k2, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo*
Round2: knit
Round 3: *K3, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo*
Round 4: knit
Knit until leg is 6 ½” or desired length. End with a row 4.
For the heel, you will be working the heel over 33 (going down to 32) stitches, and keeping 39 stitches on hold for the instep.
For the heel flap, start with the “wider” portion of the pattern (this will be the first set of stitches on needle 1). Start knitting the heel at the beginning of needle 1, knit 33 stitches onto needle 1, and transfer the rest of the stitches to two needles (it’s easier to hold the instep on two needles while you are knitting the heel; you will be transferring them back to one needle once you start knitting the instep again.)
Heel flap row 2: p 16, p2tog, p 15. You now have 32 heel stitches.
Now work the heel pattern:
Row 1: *slip 1, knit 1*
Row 2: slip 1, purl to end
Repeat these rows 16 times – you will have 32 rows in the heel pattern plus the two set-up rows.
Now, work a French heel over 32 stitches:
Row 1: knit 17, slip-slip-knit (SSK decrease), k1, turn
Row 2: slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 3: slip 1, knit 6, ssk, k1, turn
Row 4: slip 1, purl 7, p2tog, p1, turn…
Continue on in the same way, with one more stitch worked each row, until all sts have been worked. You should have 18 sts remaining. Divide these sts over two needles, and then pick up 18 sts on each side of the heel flap.
For the instep, you will start again in the pattern, but you will be starting and ending with the “narrow” part of the pattern (the part that is always yo, slip1-k2tog-psso, yo on every odd row). You will only work this pattern over the 39 instep stitches; work in plain stockinette across bottom of foot.
Put all 39 instep stitches on a single needle.
Row 1: yo, slip1-k2tog-psso, yo, then, *k2, yo, k1, slip 1-k2tog-psso, k1, yo, k2, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo*
Row 2: knit
Row 3: yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo, then *k3, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo*
Row 4: knit
While you are working this pattern, beginning with the first Row 3, work a decrease row on the gusset stitches.
Needles 1 and 3 hold the gusset stitches; needle 2 is the instep:
Decrease round:
Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Needle 2: work instep pattern
Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end.
Work a decrease round every odd-numbered round until 16 sts remain on each gusset needle (this will give a total of 71 stitches in a round).
Continue to work in instep pattern until foot is 7 ½ “ or 2” less than desired finished length.
Toe: you will need to rearrange the stitches. Knit one round plain and decrease three stitches evenly-spaced on the instep. This will give 36 instep stitches and 16 stitches on needles 1 and 3. Move one instep stitch to needle 1 and one to needle 3.
You will now have the stitches arranged 17-34-17, which will work evenly for decreases.
Decrease round:
Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end.
Work the decrease round, then 3 rounds plain. Then work decrease again and 2 rounds plain, decrease, 2 rounds plain, decrease, 1 round plain, decrease, 1 round plain, decrease, 1 round plain (that should be 16 rounds total). Then decrease every round until 16 stitches remain – Kitchener stitch these stitches together.
The main trickiness of this was getting the (rather wide) pattern to work out so it would be symmetrical on the instep, and also, getting the toe to work out evenly.
I have checked this pattern and I'm pretty sure it's correct (the stitch pattern especially - I wanted to be sure I had all the yo's in the right places). If there are any points that need clarification, let me know. (And if you decide to knit these, please let me know...in fact, if you send me a picture of the finished socks, I'll post it).
Horseshoe Crab Socks (using a stitch pattern from the Vogue Stitchionary, Volume 1)
Copyright "fillyjonk"
Requirements: 100 g (about 375-390 yards) fingering-weight sockyarn
Set of five double-pointed needles, size 1 (or size needed to give gauge)
Gauge: 8 sts = 1 inch (over stockinette stitch - it is very hard to count sts in the lace pattern, gauge is about 9 sts per inch in that, but the lace pattern will stretch)
Size: women’s “medium” – 8” (unstretched) leg circumference (it will stretch to 12” or more), 9” (very lightly stretched) foot circumference, 9 ¼” foot length. Can be adjusted for length by knitting more or fewer rows.
Cast on 72 sts over two needles held together. Join in a round, being careful not to twist stitches.
Abbreviations: psso = pass slipped stitch over (over previously knitted-together stitches)
Ssk = Slip, slip, knit decrease – slip two stitches and knit them together.
Directions between asterisks: repeat until end of round or end of instep.
Spread stitches evenly (I used 24-24-24) over three needles and knit in k1, p1 rib for 1 ½ inches.
Leg pattern (repeat of 12 sts). You will be ending rows 1 and 3 with a yarn over; be sure to work at least a few stitches of the next row before setting the work down so you don’t lose the yarnover.
Round 1: *k2, yo, k1, slip 1-k2tog-psso, k1, yo, k2, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo*
Round2: knit
Round 3: *K3, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo*
Round 4: knit
Knit until leg is 6 ½” or desired length. End with a row 4.
For the heel, you will be working the heel over 33 (going down to 32) stitches, and keeping 39 stitches on hold for the instep.
For the heel flap, start with the “wider” portion of the pattern (this will be the first set of stitches on needle 1). Start knitting the heel at the beginning of needle 1, knit 33 stitches onto needle 1, and transfer the rest of the stitches to two needles (it’s easier to hold the instep on two needles while you are knitting the heel; you will be transferring them back to one needle once you start knitting the instep again.)
Heel flap row 2: p 16, p2tog, p 15. You now have 32 heel stitches.
Now work the heel pattern:
Row 1: *slip 1, knit 1*
Row 2: slip 1, purl to end
Repeat these rows 16 times – you will have 32 rows in the heel pattern plus the two set-up rows.
Now, work a French heel over 32 stitches:
Row 1: knit 17, slip-slip-knit (SSK decrease), k1, turn
Row 2: slip 1, purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn
Row 3: slip 1, knit 6, ssk, k1, turn
Row 4: slip 1, purl 7, p2tog, p1, turn…
Continue on in the same way, with one more stitch worked each row, until all sts have been worked. You should have 18 sts remaining. Divide these sts over two needles, and then pick up 18 sts on each side of the heel flap.
For the instep, you will start again in the pattern, but you will be starting and ending with the “narrow” part of the pattern (the part that is always yo, slip1-k2tog-psso, yo on every odd row). You will only work this pattern over the 39 instep stitches; work in plain stockinette across bottom of foot.
Put all 39 instep stitches on a single needle.
Row 1: yo, slip1-k2tog-psso, yo, then, *k2, yo, k1, slip 1-k2tog-psso, k1, yo, k2, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo*
Row 2: knit
Row 3: yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo, then *k3, yo, slip 1-k2tog-psso, yo*
Row 4: knit
While you are working this pattern, beginning with the first Row 3, work a decrease row on the gusset stitches.
Needles 1 and 3 hold the gusset stitches; needle 2 is the instep:
Decrease round:
Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Needle 2: work instep pattern
Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end.
Work a decrease round every odd-numbered round until 16 sts remain on each gusset needle (this will give a total of 71 stitches in a round).
Continue to work in instep pattern until foot is 7 ½ “ or 2” less than desired finished length.
Toe: you will need to rearrange the stitches. Knit one round plain and decrease three stitches evenly-spaced on the instep. This will give 36 instep stitches and 16 stitches on needles 1 and 3. Move one instep stitch to needle 1 and one to needle 3.
You will now have the stitches arranged 17-34-17, which will work evenly for decreases.
Decrease round:
Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end.
Work the decrease round, then 3 rounds plain. Then work decrease again and 2 rounds plain, decrease, 2 rounds plain, decrease, 1 round plain, decrease, 1 round plain, decrease, 1 round plain (that should be 16 rounds total). Then decrease every round until 16 stitches remain – Kitchener stitch these stitches together.
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