That's two shawls and four pairs of socks for about $65. Pretty good deal.
I really like the "Flower Power" color sockyarn - it's the red and green one near the righthand side of the picture. It reminds me more of geraniums, though, than it does hippies...I think I'm going to wind this one off and take it with me next week. Haven't decided yet whether to do simple socks or whether to consider an eyelet lace pattern of some sort for it.
(And another good thing: It is so SWEET to get an e-mail from a co-author saying 'You are right' when I gently pointed a mistake out to him. Even better, this is someone who has carped at me for not paying sufficient attention to what he or I have written in the past.)
I also finished the Eccentric Cable socks, so as promised, here's a picture and pattern:
Eccentric Cable Socks by Erica Corbett
Inspiration: Nancy Bush (Especially her habit of making the cable or other fancy stitches mesh well with the ribbing)
Fits "women's medium" (sock top 6" around unstretched; will stretch to 12". Foot 9 3/4 inches long when completed. As always, you can alter to fit you).
Requirements: Approximately 75 g (~300 meters) of fingering weight yarn. I used KnitPicks' "Sock Garden" in the color "Stargazer Lily." Larger sizes will require more yarn.
Gauge: 9 stitches to the inch and 12 rows to the inch over stockinette in the round. I used size 1 (US) needles to achieve this gauge. You will generally use a set of 4 needles, but a fifth may be helpful in working the toe or picking up stitches at the gussets.
Cast on 76 sts using a stretchy cast-on (I used the Long-Tail).
Arrange the stitches so that there are 19 on needle 1, 38 on needle 2, and 19 on needle 3. Join, and knit in k2, p2 ribbing for 1"
Then begin the pattern. You will be continuing the k2 p2 ribbing for most of the sock but will place the cable in the front center.
The eccentric cable pattern is an 18 row pattern. For most of the rows, you will be doing this (repeat the directions in parentheses the indicated number of times)
Needle 1: K1, (P2, K2) 4 times, end p2
Needle 2: (K2 P2) 4 times, K6, (P2 K2) 4 times
Needle 3: (P2 K2) 4 times, P2, end K1
You will be doing this for rows 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18 of the pattern.
The only "different" rows will be rows 4 and 10 of the pattern. You will be doing cable crosses on the K6 stitches of needle 2. There are three choices you can do:
1. You can do both socks with a front-cross cable
2. You can do both socks with a back-cross cable
3. You can do (like I did) one sock with front crossing and one sock with back-crossing to make them subtly different.
Front cross cable instructions:
Needle 1: K1, (P2, K2) 4 times, end p2
Needle 2: (K2 P2) 4 times, slip three stitches to cable needle and hold in front, k3, k3 from cable needle, (P2 K2) 4 times
Needle 3: (P2 K2) 4 times, P2, end K1
Back cross cable instructions:
Needle 1: K1, (P2, K2) 4 times, end p2
Needle 2: (K2 P2) 4 times, slip three stitches to a cable needle and hold in back, k3, k3 from cable needle, (P2 K2) 4 times
Needle 3: (P2 K2) 4 times, P2, end K1
You will do the same crossing for both rows 4 and 10 of the pattern. Be sure to be consistent within a sock (all front cross or all back cross) or you will wind up with an even more eccentric cable.
Knit the socks in pattern for four repeats, stopping after row 10 on the fourth repeat.
Heel flap (Knit over 38 sts)
Row 1: slip 1, knit 1 acros
Row 2: slip 1, then purl to end
Continue this until you have a heel flap that is about 2 1/2" long. (I think that was about 40 repeats of the heel-flap pattern for me).
You should end having completed a purl row.
Turn heel: V-heel
Row 1: slip 1, knit 18, slip slip knit, knit 1, turn
Row 2: slip 1, purl 1, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn
Row 3: slip 1, knit 2, slip slip knit, knit 1, turn
Row 4: slip 1, purl 3, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn
Row 5: slip 1, knit 4, slip slip knit, knit 1, turn
Row 6: slip 1, purl 5, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn
Row 7: slip 1, knit 6, slip slip knit, knit 1, turn
Row 8: slip 1, purl 7, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn
Row 9: slip 1, knit 8, slip slip knit, knit 1, turn
Continue in this manner, knitting or purling one more stitch between the decreases each row, until all stitches have been worked. You should have eighteen stitches remaining at the end (you will end having worked a purl row). Knit across the heel flap and pick up 20 stitches along its side. Knit needle 2 in pattern (you should be starting again with row 11), and pick up 20 stitches the other side of the heel flap. Divide the stitches so you have 29 each on needles 1 and 3 and 38 on needle 2.
Knit around for row 12.
Then, do a decrease on needles 1 and 3 every odd-numbered row until you are back down to 19-38-19 stitches. (Decreases: knit to last 3 sts on needle 1, k2tog, k1. On needle 3: k1, slip slip knit, knit to end). Continue in pattern on instep stitches.
Knit the foot of the sock until it is about 2 1/4 to 2 inches shorter than desired length. (For me, this meant finishing the pattern repeat, plus two more full repeats, plus another repeat up to row 10).
Toe: round toe.
First, to bring the number of stitches down to a number divisible by 8, decrease four times evenly spaced over the sock (in other words: knit 17, k2 tog). Then do a round toe:
Row 1: (k6, k2tog) around
Knit 6 rounds plain
Row 8: (k5, k2tog) around
Knit 5 rounds plain
Row 14: (k4, k2tog) around
Knit 4 rounds plain
Row 19: (k3, k2tog) around
Knit 3 rounds plain
Row 23: (k2, k2tog) around
Knit 2 rounds plain
Row 26: (k1, k2tog) around
Knit 1 round plain
Last round: k2tog around
Break yarn, thread into needle, and draw yarn through all (9) remaining stitches. Pull tight and fasten off. Weave in any ends. Make second sock.
This pattern, such as it is, is one I came up with. Please do NOT sell this pattern, or use it to mass-produce socks for profit (as if). You may share it as long as it is free and my name stays attached to the pattern, and I give you permission, if you choose, to use this pattern to make socks to raise money for charity.
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